Excelsior Peak via Damfino Lakes
There is a special part of the North Cascades that’s tucked away between Mt. Baker and the Canadian border, bordered to the south along SR 542. Throngs of tourists flock to SR 542 during the snow-free months, but most of them are headed to either the area around Artist Point or some of the trails on the north slopes of Mt. Baker and skip this area entirely. They don’t know what they are missing!
Dominating this area is a feature called the High Divide, which is a long ridge running east-west roughly parallel to 542. It’s anchored on the west by Excelsior Peak and Church Mountain, and on the east near Welcome Pass. A trail runs along the length of the High Divide, and offers spectacular views of Mt. Baker and also the entire region. I’ve explored a variety of trails in this area, but today I want to share Excelsior Peak with you on the west end.
Excelsior is a bit unusual as there are two main trails leading to it, not counting the High Divide itself. From the south, there’s a parking lot just off of 542 that leads up the south slopes to Excelsior Pass. This approach is around 3600 feet of gain, so not for the timid, but the approach is all paved. But if you’re willing to drive on a reasonably long forest service road, there’s another approach around the north side that’s much gentler, and that’s where I found myself for this outing. We got a babysitter and my wife joined me too! The views from the parking lot were moody with fog and clouds moving past the ridges.
Moody clouds on a distant ridge.
The trail sets off steeply at first, but quickly moderates and passes through some lovely old growth forest. Several other trails branch off from here to other locations. Few see many visitors on a given day. After about a mile, the trail winds past Damfino Lakes. The largest of these lakes isn’t all that large, but it has some beautiful old growth surrounding it and made for some nice reflections on the day we visited.
Lots of trail options for solitude in this area.
The biggest of the Damfino Lakes on a cloudy day.
Not long after the lake, the trail breaks out into open meadows that are typical of the region. The meadows in this area feature both lots of flowers and lots of heather. The flowers here are thick with lots of green foliage, which is quite different from the meadows further east where there is less rain (this area gets soaked!) The heather is common in the alpine, but there’s something about it here that makes it look and feel different to me compared to other places in the North Cascades. We were a little early for most of the flowers, but the views were still excellent.
After some gentle uphill, the way eventually reaches Excelsior Pass, where on a typical day you would be greeted with a view of Mt. Baker. Today though, the clouds kept Baker hidden for most of the journey. Still, the clouds add a lot I think and create some interesting light and scenes!
Looking back the way we came into meadows. The bright green hillside in the distance is full of flowers.
Clouds moving through three distant ridges.
At the pass, the trail meets the other trail coming up from 542, and together these trails join to head east down the High Divide. Although it might be tempting to stop at the pass, this section is really a must do. The trail opens up to more flower meadows and views of the Nooksack River valley, as well as Baker, Shuksan, and Church Mountain. Really stunning scenery.
The High Divide trail passing above a flower meadow with Church Mountain in the distance.
After roughly half a mile, the trail arrives at a small saddle on the east side of Excelsior Peak. This is the easiest way up the peak - there’s a trail from the west, but it’s quite steep. This side is steep too though, although it is pretty short. It’s worth the short hustle up to the peak to enjoy the view. From here, you can see most of the peaks in the area. Baker and Shuksan of course, buy Tomyhoi looms large on the eastern horizon. I was even able to spot some of the Mox peaks way off in the distance with the clouds parted. They are all the way on the other side of the Pickets!
Descending from the summit of Excelsior Peak, with the High Divide in the distance.
Peaks and valleys and trees - oh my!
So many different mountain scenes!
Even the trees are amazing!
Further adventures abound from here. The High Divide is a relatively level trail that goes for miles to the east, with (mostly dry) camping opportunities too. It’s really a neat place to explore, and an area I keep coming back to. Add it to your list if you are a local, or are just visiting the area.